Hey there, you! I recently reached out on Twitter asking for article ideas, because I’m at a bit of a loss for words. Final exams are coming up, so I’m trying to juggle the whole “school” thing with staying on top of the Magic finance market for your benefit. I appreciate all of my readers who sent me great ideas, so I’m going to splurge this week and try on touch on a little bit of everything instead of saving these up for multiple article ideas like a rational human being. If I end up hitting my head against the computer next week on the night of my deadline, I’m sure I can just fart out another piece of god-tier penmanship about how I should be swimming in Mayor of Avabruck right now if I knew anything about this game. Let’s roll.
The Little Boar that Could
So this little piece of ham is something I’ve been wanting to write about for a while, because it’s just so innocuous at first glance. Is it Modern legal? Nope. Legacy playable? Not even close. Commander appeal? Basically none. The trick here is that it’s actually legal in the Magic Online Pauper league, where it’s printed as a common and sees a little bit of play in Green Stompy lists. There was a Reddit thread on the mtgfinance subreddit about a week and a half ago that gave some excellent insight into why a card like this can appear to be at $7, so I’ll just link that here instead of paraphrasing and regurgitating it up here. /u/another-reddit-guy had some excellent insight into a format that none of the rest of us “financiers” really pay any attention to, and its’ absolutely worth keeping your finger on the pulse of the trends in Pauper if you want to make sure that the next Brindle Shoat doesn’t slip through while you pick bulk.
However, a slight bump in pauper popularity obviously isn’t enough to cause this kind of increase in price. Supply is absolutely a factor, and we can talk quickly about just how low that number is for Planechase. You know that stupid joke I always repeat when mentioning the scarcity of a card? I say that there were basically six packs of Coldsnap or whatever opened, so the supply is extremely low and easy to dry up if even a small spark of demand appears for the card. That holds especially true for all of the cards from Planechase and Planechase 2012, where even the uncommons can be treated as super mythics considering how low the print run was.
Even Amazon has no idea what that card is. That’s not to say Amazon is the hotbed where all the Pauper aficionados buy their “battle boxes” (a new term I learned recently), but you know that supply is a barren desert when there’s a combined total of less than a dozen copies on eBay, SCG, TCGplayer, Coolstuff, Amazon, Cardshark, and Channelfireball combined. Normally I just say “Oh, wait until people start pulling these from their bulk and listing them online, the price will settle at a degree between the pre-spike price and the post-spike price.” This time, I’m not sure there are enough of these in bulk to satisfy that growing Pauper demand. If you’re in the market for these to build your battle box, I’d still avoid paying anything over $4 though.
This is how much play the little boar sees, at most. Yes, that’s enough.
Planeswalking Segue
So if an uncommon that sees play as a two of can hit $7, surely the planes from the same set are equally as popular…. right? Well, not exactly. I mentioned this week on Cartel Aristocrats that you should probably go through any of your old oversized Commanders or Planechase cards, and see if any of them are worth anything. After doing a b it of digging, it looks like the real money is in the 2009 and promo planes, not so much the 2012 versions. While this information probably won’t be relevant for the next few collections you buy (I think I’ve only bought three or four collections in my life that had Planechase planes or Archenemy schemes), it’s definitely something that should encourage you to go through your own old stuff if you’ve been playing since these were released. The same goes for the 2011 Commander oversized cards; Kaalia goes for around $8-10 for the supersized version!
So you ran into your basement, pulled out twenty Stairs to Infinity, and you want to turn them into crisp dollar bills. I understand. I was in your situation not too long ago. While I was doing some cleaning last year, I found a pile of schemes and planes from my days as a casual player, and decided to buylist them all to save myself some trouble. While you can technically sell them on eBay or TCGplayer, I can’t speak for how quickly they’ll actually sell. There’s also the added trouble of shipping single oversized cards; They obviously don’t fit into a regular toploader, so you’d have to get creative with the packaging to make sure the card doesn’t get damaged in transit. I had success selling all of mine to ChannelFireball, as they paid the best prices out of all the stores I looked at.
While we’re on the topic of supplies, I’d like to talk very quickly about spindown dice; the kind you get From a Vault of Some Kind, or perhaps a week before a set releases. In my experience, I saw a lot of people throw these away at the last prerelease I went to. I know because I threw mine away, forgetting that it even came with the box. Whoooops. Anyway, that’s okay. The D20 spindowns that come with the prereleases now aren’t really worth anything; most buylists will pick them up for 25 cents each, so don’t feel bad if you can’t find them.
The real fun comes if you have any of these lying around that are from pre-Innistrad era. Most of the spindowns that you see in the picture are $4 or $5 if you check on SCG or Coolstuffinc, except for a couple that I mispriced (can you guess which ones?). I ended up getting around $40 for this lot when I sold them on Twitter, which was a nice buffer to the collection that these came in around a month ago. If you’re an old timer and were around for the “good old days” of Magic (or so I’ve heard, I was like eight years old at the time), you can sell the spindowns from Apocalypse, Onslaught, or Judgment for around $25.
Just another side note about shipping before I take off for the week; Ship spindowns in a PWE at your own risk. While I’ve talked to a few friends about their experiences mailing dice in envelopes, they’ve had mixed results. Some post offices will be comfortable mailing it as a non-machinable letter with just a stamp or two, but my local USPS made me ship it as a small package so I ate $2.50 shipping a single one of these at $5. Gross. Thankfully I was able to ship the rest to a single individual and save a ton on shipping, so find that one guy in your local area who wants to catch ’em all.
Until next week!
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If there’s one topic that comes up repeatedly from listeners/readers/tweeters/sycophants, it’s how to sell a Magic card. It’s never so broad as “how do I sell this card,” rather, it’s always in regards to some component of the process. What’s the best place to sell my card? How do you package your cards? Why did I just pay $7 to ship a PWE? (PWE means Plain White Envelope, by the way. It’s a commonly used term in our niche community.)
Today, a comprehensive guide to choosing the best venue to sell your card, how to package it, and how to ship it. With this guide, you’ll be shipping like the pros! Or at least me. So maybe Pro-Am at best.
Where To Sell
There are several options when choosing to sell your card. Like so few things in life, there is no clear “correct” answer. However, some are definitely preferable to others depending on the circumstance.
Facebook/Locally
Selling via your local Facebook groups or word of mouth in your neighborhood is, in theory, the best way to sell a card. There’s no shipping, no fees, your customer receives the card immediately, and if nobody else in the area has the card for sale, you’re not exactly facing a “race to the bottom” situation akin to what you’ll see on TCGPlayer. With no fees, no shipping, little competition, and the ability to sell cards at basically SCG’s prices, you can’t beat it the profit margins.
However, not all is rosy. Selling through Facebook has a problem which is twofold: scale and demand. If you’ve got one single card to sell, finding a local buyer isn’t a hassle. If you’ve got 20, 40, or 300 cards to sell, trying to directly connect to that many people will become a massive time sink. Additionally, there’s the issue that there simply may not be someone within your area that wants a card. Archangel Avacyn is easy to find a buyer for. How about the foil Japanese Ardent Plea I picked up recently though? There’s probably only a few hundred people in the country that will buy that card. What are the odds they’re in my backyard, and they’re reading the city’s Magic Facebook page?
Pros: Absolute best profit margins short of running an actual store Cons: Only useful if you’re selling a small handful of high-demand cards
PucaTrade
This isn’t “selling” per se, but if you’re going to use the money you get from the sale to buy more cards, it may as well be the same. PucaTrade essentially gives you full value on the card’s worth, so long as you’re buying more cards with it. Your only overhead is shipping, as there are no fees by default, unless you want to trade for foils, in which case you’re signing up for Silver or Gold. If you’re just trying to turn that Avacyn into a couple of Thought-Knot Seers, this may be your best bet.
PucaTrade’s catch, of course, is that you don’t actually end up with any money at the other side of the transaction. Just Magic funbux. It can also be a pain to actually send your card, since it relies heavily on refreshing the “Send Cards” page vigorously and for extended periods of time. Then, after the card gets where it’s going, you’ve got to wait for people to send you what you want. It’s great for turning those Standard staples into EDH pieces you need, but if timeliness is important, this is the equivalent of travelling cross-country on a Stagecoach.
For more information on PucaTrade, you can check out my recent two articles on the topic, which cover the trustworthiness of the market and the best uses for the service. (And guys, if someone’s display name isn’t actually their name — if it’s “Wastes +15%” or something — check their profile for the correct name to put on the envelope.)
Pros: You get retail value for your cards… Cons: …so long as you’re buying more Magic cards. Also, not exactly fast.
Buylist
Nearly all vendors, such as Starcitygames, Channel Fireball, and whoever else, have what is called a “buylist.” This is what that vendor will pay you for your cards. For instance, today, April 18th 2016, SCG will pay you $27.50 if you send them an Avacyn. So long as it’s in good shape, it’s easy money. No arguing, no fees, no waiting for someone to click “buy.” Ship it off to Roanoke and you’re $27.50 richer, minus shipping.
The biggest knock on buylists is that they don’t let you maximize your greed. Why sell an Avacyn to SCG for $27.50 when you can sell it on TCGPlayer for $40? That’s an extra $12.50 you’re making! (Well, kind of. But we’ll talk about that more when we get there.) Buylisting will, in general, make you less money per card than other outlets. The tradeoff to this is how much faster and easier it is when dealing with a large volume of cards. If you just picked up a collection and have tens to hundreds to thousands of cards to sell and don’t want to deal with selling each individually, buylisting gives you an avenue with a reasonable rate of return, especially when you consider what it asks of you in time/shipping costs. Of all the options on our list, buylisting may be the best or second best overall option, especially since it scales up so well. Many of the writers here make heavy use of buylists on a regular basis.
There’s also the added feature that is trade-in bonuses. While SCG will give you $27.50 cash for your Avacyn, they’ll also give you the option of receiving $34.38 in store credit. How good the bonus is depends on the store, and it usually lands somewhere between 15% and 30%. In order to determine whether the trade-in bonus is worth it, you need to check whether or not the store actually has the cards you’re looking to pick up, and if they do, if it’s cheaper to buy them there with the store credit bonus than it is to take the cash and buy them elsewhere. The answer changes every time, so there’s no clear-cut solution other than “look it up.”
If you’ve only got a handful of cards to sell and don’t mind putting in a little extra time, or if you need to squeeze every last dime out of a card, this isn’t your best bet. The more cards you have, though, the more enticing buylisting becomes.
Pros: Far and away the fastest method of turning more than a few cards cards into cash, and often the best return rate when considering time invested Cons: Often not the absolute most money you can squeeze out of an individual card, rates for non-NM cards are abysmal, and your cards need to truly be NM
eBay
Ah, eBay. Once the face of the new millennium and a promise of what wonders the internet would herald for our society. Today, it’s a black hole of disputed transactions, missing packages, obnoxious fees, and grey-market surgical equipment.
eBay is essentially the poor man’s TCGPlayer. When you can’t find a local buyer for your single card, you want the most value possible for it, you don’t want to bother setting up a TCGPlayer seller’s account, and you’re willing to tolerate some of the worst people outside of Reddit, eBay is where you turn. Honestly, I rarely use eBay these days. The only time I list anything there is when I’m the only person selling that particular card, so that there’s no competition. Then you get to make up some ridiculous price and hope someone pays it. I’ve got a foil Korean Nykthos, Shrine to Nyx? Uhhh, how about $200? Nobody else has one, so who is going to say that’s too expensive?
I strictly use the Buy It Now feature when I do make my rare forays into eBay. Auctions are unreliable, and in the face of so many other options, hardly ideal. I’ll list my card with a Buy It Now, forget it’s there, and every so often be pleasantly surprised when my phone dings and it’s an email from eBay telling me something sold. Listing in multiple locations is not a bad idea either. Especially on your more unique cards, stick the card on eBay with a BIN of $100, and then also list it for sale over on TCGPlayer for $90 or whatever the going rate is. You’ll probably sell it on TCGPlayer first, but you get the freeroll of possibly selling your cards at above market rates to someone that probably scammed their way into a handful of eBay bux and is using them to purchase Magic cards. Just make sure that you remember two things: if it sells in one location you remember to remove it from the other, and always ship with tracking when selling on eBay.
Pros: Gets you actual cash in an amount that’s probably closer to market than buylist, and if you’re lucky, above market Cons: Buyers will try to scam you, turnover is slow, the interface sucks, eBay is an obnoxious company
TCGPlayer
When you’ve got more than two or three cards to sell, TCGPlayer is often the best place to turn. Setting up a seller’s account is quite easy (no more difficult than eBay, I’d say), and it gives you access to a market that wants exactly what you’re selling. Fees are a tad on the high side but not backbreaking, the interface improves every few weeks, and you reach the most motivated customer base. Reaching an engaged customer base is especially important when you’re selling anything other than non-foil English format staples. Any foreign or odd foil cards are best sold here, as other venues either don’t allow for those items to be sold, or there’s very few people looking for them.
Turnover is also quite high relative to other venues, with Standard staples listed at TCG low often selling within minutes or hours. There’s no quicker way to turn your fresh Avacyn into cash money than selling it on TCG. Additionally, your clientele generally isn’t awful human beings. I’ve got around 500 successful sales on TCGPlayer at this point, and I think maybe one or two involved a cranky buyer.
Of course, nothing’s perfect. As mentioned, the fees aren’t ideal, especially on lower value cards. If the card is $4 or $5 or less, I generally don’t even bother to list it. It’s not that bad if you’re running a large inventory, but until you get to “this is my full time job” status, listing $.25 cards isn’t worth your time. For anything that small, you’re much better off turning to buylists. You’re also represented as a store, not just a dude with a card. This means the burden of customer service is squarely on your shoulders. List a card at $.90 instead of $9.00? It’s on you to eat that and put the card in the mail anyways. You need to ship in a reasonable amount of time, and you’re on the hook to cover the return if your customer decides they don’t want the card.
Perhaps the worst part of selling on TCG is the “race to the bottom” syndrome. With private individuals able to sell on TCG these days, everyone and their brother is listing the cards they cracked at the prerelease or wherever for sale. Since everyone wants their cards to actually sell rather than languish, they will price it at the lowest current market price, or even a few cents lower than that. Unlike SCG, which can say “we’re charging $10 for this card and that’s that,” the TCG price on newer cards just keeps dropping and dropping, often until it’s nearly at parity with buylist prices. This doesn’t happen as much with older cards that don’t have new supply entering the market, but you’ll definitely experience this with newer cards.
Quick aside: If you’re planning on using the cash from your card sale to buy more cards, I’d recommend making a point to check the card’s value against PucaTrade first. For instance, the cheapest Avacyn on TCG right now is $41.75. If you sold at that price, you’d pay 11% + $.50 in fees. (I’m excluding shipping because you pay that on PucaTrade as well.) Overall, you’re putting $36.66 in your pocket. That’s good for roughly 8 Prairie Streams. Over on PucaTrade, sending someone an Avacyn will net you 4,738 points, and Prairie Streams are 471 each. That means you can pick up 10 Streams for one Avacyn instead of 8.
This is only one example, and you probably don’t want 8 or 10 Prairie Streams anyways. The point to consider is that, because the TCG market and the PucaTrade market function similarly, but not identically, sometimes you can get more value out of a specific card in one place than another. If you’re planning on funneling all the proceeds back into cards anyways, it pays to do some quick math and figure out which will get you more cardboard for your trouble. This works in the other direction too — oftentimes it’s a better return to sell the card on TCG than it is to send it on PucaTrade. It changes on a card-by-card basis.
If you’re a mid-level seller, TCG is often your best bet. The time requirement is more easily managed than trying to sell everything locally. Returns are solid, and reaching the widest market possible for obscure cards is appreciated. In general, I’d say that TCG, along with buylisting, are the two best options for anyone selling more than one or two cards.
Pros: You reach your widest market, get to sell at retail prices or close to them, and your buyers find you, rather than you finding them. Cons: Fees could be better, you take on more responsibility as a seller here than elsewhere, payments are made on a scheduled timeframe, can’t provide photos of non-NM cards
Sleeving
You’ve chosen where to sell your cards, and you’ve hooked a sucker. They agreed to give you cash/points/blood for your cardboard. Now you’ve got to get the card to them. Contrary to popular belief, you can’t just stick a stamp on the card and go with that.
I’m sure it’ll ship.
Start by putting the card in a sleeve. I use leftover, play-grade sleeves for between one and three cards, and penny sleeves for four cards or more. Sleeves that you’ve been using awhile on your Standard deck and need to be replaced are great shipping sleeves. You should also be saving the sleeves and toploaders that the cards you buy come in, so that you can recycle those.
I use generic penny sleeves available at any card store or Amazon, and there are larger ones out there that are great for holding 10 or 20 cards at a time. They’ll come in handy when shipping to buylists. Finally, here are some solid toploaders. They’re standard fare, and exactly what you’d expect them to be. If you’re going to be shipping any amount of cards greater than zero, you’ll want spare sleeves and toploaders.
Normal Sleeve
Penny Sleeve
Toploader
If you’re shipping one to three cards, put them in a normal sleeve. If it’s four cards, put them in the penny sleeve. More than four cards and you’re using a second toploader. Once you’ve got them sleeved, into the toploader they go. Put them in upside down if possible, though depending on the sleeve and toploader, this may be too tight a fit. If you reach the point that you’re looking for another object to hammer the cards into the loader, perhaps reconsider your strategy.
Once you’ve got the cards in the loader, we need to seal it. I like to use a small memo pad and cut the sheets in half. If it’s a TCG order, I’ll write out the order number, what I’m sending, and my store name/Twitter handle. If it’s a PucaTrade card, I’ll write the trade number on the slip. If it’s eBay, I’ll write a derogatory message insulting the customer’s choice of card. For TCG orders specifically, I opt to use this rather than a packing slip. The default packing slips that TCG provides are garbage because the seller (as of April ‘16) isn’t immediately identifiable, and frankly, it’s a huge waste of paper. Go green and keep it small!
Chicken scratch optional.
Adhere your scotch tape to the bottom of the paper, and then use the rest of the strip of tape to seal the loader’s opening. This keeps the loader closed in transit while making sure that A. your recipient looks at who sent the card while it’s actually in their hand, rather than referring to the discarded packaging, and B. they can actually get the tape off the loader without potentially damaging the card.
Pull-tab packing slip
Make sure you don’t just stick tape over the opening of the loader. It can be nearly impossible to get it off, and will result in the recipient using scissors or a knife to cut open the loader, possibly damaging the card. Also, make sure you include the PucaTrade number somewhere inside the envelope! A PWE with a PucaTrade number written on the outside is asking to be stolen, since if the person recognizes the number, they’ll also know that they can pocket the letter and nobody on either end will be able to do anything about it. And don’t forget the number entirely either. While you’re just sending a single foil Wastes to that guy, he’s currently receiving six of them, and if yours doesn’t have a trade number inside, how is he supposed to know who it was from? Don’t make people do homework to figure out where a card came from.
If there are more than four cards in a sleeve, such as when buylisting and using the larger penny sleeves, I’ll start by sealing the sleeve itself with tape. Make sure to fold one end, so it’s easily peeled off, and pinch it shut, so that the cards don’t bump into the sticky tape in transit. Then, I’ll tape the sleeve to the outside of the loader for rigidity and protection. I may tape another loader over it as well if the cards are a little more valuable.
Make sure the cards won’t hit the sticky surfaceWhen shipping more than four cards
You can’t do this if you’re putting the cards in a PWE, but if you’re mailing that many cards, it should probably be in a bubble mailer anyways.
When buylisting more than 10 or 15 cards, simply stick them in the larger sleeves, tape the sleeves shut as outlined above, and toss those into a bubble mailer. As long as none of the cards are exceptionally valuable, I wouldn’t worry about them getting damaged.
As an alternative to taping any sleeves or loaders shut, you can always try team bags. You’ll see these most frequently when you order from larger, more established stores. I haven’t used them myself yet, but I’ve never had a problem when receiving cards packaged inside them. As long as they aren’t so expensive as to be prohibitive, I’m game.
Whatever you do, on behalf of everyone who has ever received a Magic card in the mail, I beg of you, please don’t attempt to suffocate the loader with tape. Don’t seal the entire opening. Don’t cross-hatch the thing with ultra-adhesive industrial grade sealant. Don’t hermetically seal it shut with tape whose edging penetrates and bonds to the loader’s surface, becoming one cohesive structure. It makes it a nightmare to get the cards out, and the loader either ends up with layers of tape stuck to it that can be used to identify its age akin to tree rings, or the tape is removed and the loader permanently coated with an adhesive film that attaches to any stray sleeve or card it comes in contact with. A single piece of tape, either folded over on one end or with a piece of paper attached, is all that is necessary.
For the most part, you’ll probably shipping one to two cards, and probably in a PWE. Those are easy. Stick the cards in a sleeve, the sleeve in a toploader, and tape the loader shut with a piece of paper so people know who sent it to them. One last thing: if you’re shipping in a PWE, you must use a toploader. Sandwiching the card between two commons is not going to cut it.
Packaging
Your cards are sleeved and ready to go. Now comes the pesky task of getting the card to them. What are your options?
Plain White Envelope (PWE)
PWEs are what most of your daily mail comes in. Simple, white, envelopes. They typically look like this:
I’ve been pleased with these envelopes. There’s a lot there, but if you’re selling at a decent clip, you’ll be glad to have them. They don’t spoil, so the only real cost to buying in bulk is space. If the link dies, they’re #6; 2 x 3.8 x 6.6in. Security envelopes aren’t necessary, and going any wider doesn’t get you anything you need. If you’re reaching the point where the volume of cards is enough that you need two plastic toploaders worth of cards, you should be using a bubble mailer anyways.
The industry standard among non-professional sellers is that cards under $20 go in PWEs, and anything over that is shipped in a bubble mailer. Here’s the rule of thumb: If you would be upset replacing the card, don’t ship it in a PWE. Nobody wants to replace any card, but it gets especially painful the more costly the card. At the same time, you’re weighing that against the cost of shipping the card with tracking, which as of April 2016 is $2.45. It’s not worth paying $2.45 to ship a $5 card, and it’s not worth running the risk of losing (or having claimed lost) a $50 card because you didn’t want to shell out two bucks to protect it.
Here’s an important point specific to PWEs: You can’t cheaply put any sort of tracking or insurance on them. This burns nearly every single person that sells a $20+ card the first time. They put it in the envelope, take it to the post office, and ask for tracking. After a protracted conversation, they found out that the only way to do this is going to cost like $6. This is because envelopes, in order to be tracked, can’t be sent as First Class, but rather need to be Priority Mail. Or something like that. Whatever. It’s not worth it to try and put tracking on PWEs, so don’t try. It’s much more expensive than buying a bubble mailer and putting tracking on that. Bubble mailers are considered packages, not letters, and are subject to different rules.
When putting the loader into the envelope, I like to use a small piece of tape to hold the loader in place. If the loader is sliding around in transit, it may rip the envelope. Affix the tape to the edge of the loader and wrap it over the edge as so. It can be mildly annoying to receive a loader taped to the envelope, but the alternative is far more unpleasant.
Keeps the loader from ripping the envelope open
Affix the shipping address, stamp, and the return address. At this point, you may choose to then write “non-machinable” on the front and back of the envelope. This technically costs extra postage; $.22 more, to be precise. I’ve never been charged for it, but it is technically something you’re supposed to pay for. I’ll probably stop doing it because I don’t want my letters to start getting returned to me.
As for the return address, I bought a bunch of cheap address labels on VistaPrint. That company is shady as hell but the labels are cheap and after the 20th time you’ve written your own address, you’ll be glad to pay for them. You can also get a custom stamp, which is probably what I should do the next time my label supply gets low.
Bubble Mailer
When the card is worth more than $20 or there’s more than four of them, turn to bubble mailers. Here’s the latest batch I picked up, and if the link is dead, they’re 4 x 8in self-seal Bubble Mailers. You can comfortably get about two 20-ish stacks of cards into a mailer of this size, which will cover you on nearly all sales, and most small buylist orders. On the rare occasions I ship more cards than that, I’ll suck it up and drive to the post office to buy the bigger package and ship it right from there.
There’s no special tricks here. Once the card is sleeved, dump it into the mailer, seal it shut, and you’re good to go. Don’t write the address on the package though! There’s an easier way we’ll explore shortly.
Shipping
Bubble mailer in hand, how do you actually get this card to your intended target customer? If it’s an envelope, it’s easy. Affix a stamp and then leave it inside the mailbox of your home. Yes, you can do that! If you leave a stamped envelope or mailer (with appropriate labeling) in your own personal mailbox, the carrier will pick it up for you. No need to stop by an actual blue mailbox on the way to work. If your office has a mail bin that you can toss stuff into by all means, go for it, but for those of you without that luxury, leaving PWEs and even bubble mailers in your own box is a godsend.
Stamps, like envelopes, don’t expire, so if you plan on shipping cards with any regularity, don’t hesitate to pick up a few sheets and toss them in a drawer. As for bubble mailers, there’s a great at-home solution for purchasing postage.
PayPal has a function called “multi-order shipping.” Most people don’t know it’s there, but it’s fantastically helpful for those doing the type of shipping we do. It allows you, from home, to purchase and print a complete shipping label for your packages. Between buying your stamps from the grocery store and PayPal’s shipping service, you’ll never need to go to the post office again! Even better, PayPal’s service gives you a discount over paying for shipping at the post office! Yowza!
Here is the link I use to access the service. Chances are if you’re reading this more than a few months after it’s been written, the link won’t work any longer, and the site’s interface may change too, so showing you a screenshot where the link is located isn’t any more helpful. What you’re looking for is called “Multi-Order Shipping,” and you can find it after logging into PayPal.
Once you’re in, you’ll want to choose “File,” and then “Create New Orders.” We’re printing a shipping label for a bubble mailer, so I choose “Package/Thick Envelope” in the “Service Type / Package” dropdown. For only a few cards, 1oz is a fine weight. I tend to skip insured value and signature confirmation until the card is over $100, and even then I’ll only insure it. I basically don’t choose signature confirmation, because receiving a package that requires a signature can be a massive headache for the buyer. The only time I recommend requiring a signature is if the package’s value is in the neighborhood $1,000. You can’t insure a package worth that much through this interface though, so purchasing signature confirmation at home shouldn’t come up often.
Fill out the “Ship To Address” section, and then if you’ve got another label to print, “Create Another.” Otherwise, “Save and Close.”
Once you’ve got all your labels in, click the green “Print” button in the upper left corner. You’ll see a list of all your labels and the total cost. Once you’re happy with what you’ve got, “Pay and Print” will charge your PayPal account and print the labels. You even get a handy pop-up window with all the tracking numbers that you can copy/paste to the appropriate buyers, including the “Add Tracking Number” button on TCGPlayer. Quick tip: if you don’t have funds in your PayPal account, it won’t let you pay for the labels. No charging directly to your bank account here. Make sure you keep a balance in your PayPal account so that you can print labels as needed, as it can take several days to transfer funds from your bank account to PayPal.
With the labels printed, simply affix them on all four sides to the mailer using packing tape. A simple device for dispensing packing tape such as this will make your life considerably easier. Finally, I like to put the label on the side with the seam to make sure everything is nice and snug.
There you have it! How to choose where to sell your card, how to package the card(s), how to choose your shipping vessel, and the easiest way to get those to your customer. Any regular in the Magic market has had to learn their way through this process, and I’ve found these strategies work great for someone shipping more than a few cards a week but not running a full store. I’m sure those guys out there that ship hundreds of cards a week may have refined things differently than I have, and I’d be curious to hear if there are better ways than what I’ve outlined here. Happy shipping!
I am basically sick of waiting to know more about Commander 2016. At this point, we should have heard something, anything. Sure, last time some dingleberry snapped a picture of the RW deck and posted a pic online which let us know quite a lot of information. We learned that the deck was only Boros meaning we’d be getting the 5 “enemy” color pairings. Kalemne himself told us we’d see the experience counter on that card at the very least and likely at least one commander per deck. It also told us that Wizards hadn’t figure out how to make Boros not boring.
I want to get a real jump on Commander 2016 since we should be able to reasonably work some things out based on what we’ve seen in the past and the success we had working things out beforehand for Commander 2015. We basically proved last year if we approach things logically we can have a relatively high degree of success in predicting what will happen (broad strokes – we’re not going to guess the abilities of the new creatures in the decks but we may be able to guess at the sorts of strategies they will employ). Using the themes for each 2-color combination that Wizards likes to use from a Magic wiki article we correctly guessed that the Golgari deck would deal with the graveyard, the Orzhov deck would deal with enchantments, the Simic deck would deal with +1/+1 counters and the Izzet deck would deal with Instants/Sorceries. If that sounds pretty obvious, you’ve never been on any forum where EDH players discuss their predictions. They were sure the Izzet deck was going to be artifact-based. Why did they think that? Because they assumed Wizards would give them what they have been missing, not what they’re going to do predictably.
How many different combinations of 5 decks can they even do?
Between 1 and 5 five-color decks
5 four-color decks
10 three-color decks
10 two-color decks
5 one-color decks
So far they have done Commander sealed product a few times
2011 – “Khans block” three-color decks
2013 – “Shards of Alara block” three-color decks
2014 – One-color decks
2015 – “Enemy color” two-color decks
It seems pretty obvious based on 2011 and 2013 being the three-color decks back-to-back and how reluctant Wizards has been to tackle the four-color decks that we’re going to get “allied-color” two-color decks. This fits their pattern of doing the batches of five back-to-back and it leaves the four-color decks for 2017. Again, I have no confirmation but I’m very confident that we’re going to get the “allied-color” decks this time around. Confident enough to see if there is any loose money to be scooped up before the people who are waiting for confirmation get wise.
Operating under this assumption, I’m going to do what I did last year, writing an article for each of the five entries into the wiki article regarding the different themes of each deck and which cards are likely to be reprinted giving us ample time to dump the copies or otherwise prepare ourselves. Not all reprintings are created equal, though and sometimes knowing what’s likely to be reprinted could help us figure out which cards pair well with those likely reprint targets but are unlikely reprint targets themselves and are therefore good pickups. It sounds more exhausting than it is. We went through this last year and we nailed quite a few cards simply on the basis of their price and a vague correlation between their effect and the themes of the two-color guilds represented by each deck.
I’m going to go much more in depth for each of the five themes much like I did last year, giving each of the five decks a deep look to see if we can’t figure out cards likely to be reprinted, which doesn’t make us a ton of money. I would like to try and make some money at some point, so this week I am going to just poke around a little bit and see if there are any safe cards that are likely to experience upside on the vague basis of the color wheel. I think there is a non-zero amount of opportunity and I think applying the same logical approach we’ve adopted up to this point is going to serve us well.
Opportunity
The wiki about allied-color guilds is a little vague for some of the combinations. Nearly all it said about Boros was “combat” which doesn’t seem like something that’s exclusive to Boros, but what do I know? I’m a Simic guy. That said, I suppose I know a few things since we were able to make the very simple leaps in logic to predict that we’d get a Golgari graveyard deck, an Izzet spells deck, an Orzhov enchantments deck, a Boros beatdown deck and a Simic +1/+1 counters deck. If we have to guess what we’ll get this time around, the wiki page actually isn’t that bad. My guesses?
Azorius fliers
Rakdos hellbent
Gruul fatty ramp
Selesnya tokens
Finally, my “safe” pick for Dimir is that we’ll get some sort of “unblockable” creature deck, potentially with ninjas if we’re super lucky. My ballsy pick is mill, but mill is pretty terrible in EDH, not because it doesn’t work very well since your opponent’s starting life total is 92, lots of people run Eldrazi and you have to concentrate on milling one person while the rest of the table just kills you. Wait, did I say not for those reasons? Well, I meant for those reasons, but also because every card in the deck will need to be devoted to the strategy and that seems unlikely. People like mill, so I can’t rule it out given the fact that we could get some cards like Nemesis of Reason and Consuming Aberration which technically get better with mill but can actually do some damage.
If you look at the relevant planechase decks for guidance, we see what could be. The Selesnya deck was voltron last time, but the Dimir one was ninjas which I see coming back and the Gruul one was devour-based. I don’t see the decks being built around mechanics like the planechase decks were (cascade, devour, totem armor, ninjitsu) and instead being built around the things those colors do vaguely well. The Dimir one could very well give us some sweet new ninjas although Planechase makes that seem sort of unlikely. Can the Dimir deck really ignore mill entirely?
Can the way the Born of the Gods gods fit thematically in with how we suppose the color wheel is supposed to work at the intersections of these two color combinations tell us anything about future upside?
Near its very bottom, Phenax can only benefit from basically any card that makes mill more viable in EDH. That’s trickier than we may think because making mill viable in EDH means giving us more creatures like Consuming Aberration that get bigger the more you mill them which in turn lets you fuel Phenax, or Eater of the Dead which goes infinite. Speaking of which –
Those spikes and subsequent declines are copies getting concentrated in the hands of dealers. People who had tons of boxes of old The Dark lying around suddenly felt like rummaging through them during that brief few days when this card hit $10 on the strength of the very few copies that were lying around. People finally figured out this card was dumb with Phenax and people bought out the internet – very slowly. Remember the piece I wrote last week about how EDH players give us approximately a million years to pick up the cards they’ll want before they spike? I’m going to put an arrow on the graph that indicates when Phenax was released.
Talk about ample time to get one’s act together. This was a weird tangent to get onto, but I can’t tell which of my thoughts deserve a paragraph and which are only funny to me at this point. EDH finance really is too easy sometimes, but it’s only because it’s so much harder to figure out card interactions sometimes and almost no one is publishing “tech” articles or tournament reports for EDH and there is no urgency like there is with standard. This is good as far as I’m concerned. The more gradually a card spikes, the more likely it is to find price equilibrium sooner.
If we get anything that benefits a mill deck in the Dimir deck, even a card that is seemingly agnostic to the concept and only accidentally good in mill or specifically in how it ineracts with Phenax (basically the only viable EDH general where milling them is your win con rather than doing something like Lazav or Szadek shenanigans or the Mimeoplasm or Sidisi where you mill yourself. Hell, even Bruna is a “mill” deck if you think Traumatizing yourself to find goodies to strap onto your beatface angel is a “mill” deck.) we could see some real upside for the cards in the deck, but Phenax specifically. I’ll address the other cards more specifically later.
Karametra doesn’t seem like she has as much upside at the helm of a deck based on getting new tokeny cards from Commander 2016 since she triggers on casting but she has always been a strong albeit inexpensive commander. She has a lot of upside, but I feel like others do as well and it may take a lot of nudging to get her to go up. I’m not super excited about anything to do with her, but that obviously could change. She sure is good in a Trostani deck and I expect Trostani to go up and also the cards in her deck, provided Trostani herself isn’t reprinted. I’m betting heavily we get a token theme or subtheme. Trostani encompasses two of Selesnya’s key abilities – tokens and lifegain so I think there is a strong possibility we’ll see her reprinted in the deck but the cards in her deck like Parallel Lives and Giant Adephage could experience some upside. I’d say pass on Karametra potentially.
The sentient Blood Clock has mostly defied my expectations. It’s been flat for so long you have to wonder why the distance from its printing hasn’t put upward pressure on the price or lack of demand hasn’t put downward pressure on it. This is kind of an annoying commander to play against, but Rakdos seems like a better choice, or Olivia. This theoretically goes in more decks as part of the 99 than almost any of the other gods, though, which could account for the price. However, most of them aren’t Rakdos-specific and therefore Rakdos goods aren’t likely to influence his price much. I’m pretty bearish, here.
It’s hard to know what to expect from the Azorius deck. They’re almost certain to have one of the Legendary creatures be a reprint so it’s up to us to figure out if it’s Lavinia, Grand Arbiter Augustin, Ojutai, Isperia or any number of cards. Personally, I think we could see some sweet new bird tribal cards. I remember reading that the future future league expected Pride of the Clouds to define Standard and it was a bulk rare almost immediately. Could more fliers be the theme? I don’t know that it matters with respect to Ephara. This is a very cheap creature despite going in quite a few decks, especially ones like Brago where it’s pretty easy to get her to trigger almost every turn, drawing you x cards per cycle where x is the number of players. This has a ton of room to grow but, like Mogis, there isn’t much movement on the price. Do we have any reason to expect movement?
How about yes? It’s a bit hard to see, but Xenagos is on the move.
Equally effective as a Commander or part of the 99, Xenagos is almost certain to have a ton of new cards to interact with. Players have been waiting for a Gruull Hydra Commander and while they don’t always get what they want (Like an Izzet artifact commander), it seems fairly likely the Gruul deck will have ramp and fatties and Xenagos will be put in that deck when it’s out and the cards from it will go in existing Xenagos decks. Since the price is already on the move and I’m estimating it has the most upside based on his abilities coinciding perfectly with nearly every Gruul contingency we can reasonably expect in Commander 2016, this is my pick. I have a lot of confidence in this card and since it’s already on the way up, it’s hard to lose here.
I’ll start looking more in-depth at each likely deck theme and the cards likely to be reprinted next week. Until then, I feel like Xenagos and maybe some of the cards with a high affinity rating with him are going to go up when we start getting cards spoiled. We don’t know what’s in Commander 2016 for certain, but we’ve been right before taking a logical, analytical approach and I don’t expect it to fail us, now.
By now if you’ve been playing the game long enough to know what a “bulk rare” is you know the rest of pack is just “bulk.” The reality of it is if you leave those cards on the table you’re probably incrementally costing yourself a bunch of money.
There are so many names for the other 14 cards in a booster pack. Sometimes it’s bulk, sometimes more caustically known as “draft trash,” but most of the time it’s just a bunch of quarters, dimes, and dollars people often leave behind or throw in the garbage. Picking bulk is a hard thing to do and people pay for bulk because they assume it hasn’t been picked to it’s fullest potential. I’m not going to teach you how to pick every card out of bulk that can be sold for some amount of money. What I will suggest is just picking your own bulk for cards you know you will probably need at some point in a set’s lifetime in Standard.
Saving Some Dollars
So I took a look at the orders from my LGS (I usually buy them online and then pick them up in store) is over the course of the 15ish months that Fate Reforged was in Standard, I spent close to $5 on Arashin Clerics (mostly due to losing them). It might not sound like a lot when Standard had $200 mana bases but a few dollars here and there can make a big difference at the end of the year. If you’re a serious Standard player that doesn’t play the same deck for it’s entire life in Standard sometimes you need a pile of commons and uncommons you weren’t using. Sometimes those are cards you already owned and forgot where you left them. Laziness is a real problem and cost me at least $5. Picking your bulk cards can help ease the problem with finding the right cards to play with while also not costing you a ton of time or money.
What To Pick
The biggest question is what do you pick. If you don’t want to sort literally every card you own there must be a threshold for a card to be worth setting aside. I have a few rules of thumb that I follow when figuring out what to pick:
Is it first pickable in draft? A lot of very powerful limited cards find there way into Standard. The poster child for this is rares like Pack Rat and Citadel Siege. In more recent sets even commons have become constructed all stars. How many people expected the top 8 of Pro Tour Oath of the Gatewatch to include Eldrazi Skyspawner in Modern?
Does it cost 3 or less? Cards that cost 3 or less are more likely to be constructed playable. When they cost a low enough amount of mana, even basically vanilla creatures like Dragon Hunter and Expedition Envoy become constructed playable.
Does it do some situationally relevant thing very well? Commons and uncommons that I’ve found myself unlikely to have are weird niche sideboard cards. This is the category for cards like Clip Wings, Arashin Cleric, Negate, etc. When they’re good, they’re very good. But when they’re bad, they’re almost unplayable.
Is it a land? Lands are always playable in some capacity. Although you may never play most of them, it’s a small price to pay to own a bunch of weird lands just so you don’t have to spend a few bucks to buy them. This is also especially important when a land is in it’s first print cycle (like the Shadows over Innistrad enemy colored tap lands and Warped Landscape).
Is it an uncommon? I’m much more liberal with pulling uncommons than commons because the more playable uncommons are typically much more expensive. While most constructed playable commons from recent sets don’t typically get more than $0.50, very good uncommons can be $3 or more (like Monastery Swiftspear).
Does it kill things? Cheap, efficient removal is almost always one of those things that finds a way into constructed formats.
Does it do a similar thing to a card you already know is playable? I know this is a little hard to describe so I will give the best analogy. Flaying Tendrils is a lot like Drown in Sorrow. Drown in Sorrow was very playable when it was in Standard so I would assume Flaying Tendrils has a higher than average chance of being played. Biting Rain would also be picked under the same context.
What does this all look like?
To give you a better idea of how I pick my bulk, I’ll give you the list of cards I took out:
Commons:
Catalog
Deny Existence
Just the Wind
Nagging Thoughts
Pieces of the Puzzle
Alms of the Vein
Dead Weight
Murderous Compulsion
Shamble Back
Dual Shot
Fiery Temper
Insolent Neonate
Tormenting Voice
Clip Wings
Fork in the Road
Loam Dryad
Root Out
Vessel of Nascency
Angelic Purge
Thraben Inspector
Vessel of Ephemera
Warped Landscape
Uncommons:
Biting Rain
Call the Bloodline
Indulgent Aristocrat
Olivia’s Bloodsworn
Pick the Brain
Sinister Concoction
Compelling Deterrence
Essence Flux
Invasive Surgery
Ongoing Investigation
Pore over the Pages
Rise from the Tides
Topplegeist
Groundskeeper
Weirding Wood
Dance with Devils
Geistblast
Gibbering Fiend
Incorrigible Youths
Lightning Axe
Ravenous Bloodseeker
Forsaken Sanctuary
Foul Orchard
Highland Lake
Stone Quarry
Woodland Stream
The last thing I picked was all of the double faced cards. I’m not sure which ones will be good or bad but there are so few that if I ever need any of them I will likely be short as it is. As the case was, I didn’t have 4 Duskwatch Recruiters to make the Bant Company deck. At any rate, I figure I will find myself taking these cards out of the fatpack box they now reside in and thanking my lucky stars I picked them.
Now if you’ll excuse me, I’m going to go through my sorted picks from Magic Origins and get my Bounding Krasi (Krasises? What’s the plural of krasis?) and feel good I won’t pay $1 for them.
MAGIC: THE GATHERING FINANCE ARTICLES AND COMMUNITY
